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About CitySlickersPullin'

  • Rank
    Jr. Member

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  • Location
    Lancaster, OH
  1. A lot of guys are running the 375/65/16 (36x15.50x16) mickey Thompson MTZ tires around central ohio... What is the widest rim y'all think could be ran with these? Thanks, Josh
  2. Yeah sorry, guy bought everything listed but the alternator, bracket, and mandrel
  3. Yeah sorry, guy bought everything listed but the alternator, bracket, and mandrel
  4. 14 bolt full float, SRW hubs, no brakes, Detroit locker, 3.73 gears, spring perches in stock location, 67" wms/wms, shock brackets have been moved, stock 1350 yoke, lots of spare parts come with it: 2 sets of spare axle shafts 1 extra 3.73 ring & pinion 1 4.10 ring pinion 1 extra open carrier with spider gears & bearings Spider gears from when Detroit was installed 1 extra 1350 yoke 2 extra pinion supports 2 extra sets of bearing caps 2 extra sets of side adjusters This is my stock pile of 14 bolt stuff, putting an AAM in so this stuff has to go!! Make me an offer, need it gone! $500 OBO Have pictures I can send. Call, text, email Mike (740-243-4787) or Josh (740-808-6768)
  5. I currently have this motor in my pulling truck & turn it 7000rpms and a max of 7500, has about 20 hooks on it, runs on 110 octane, est 700+hp never dynoed, intake to pan. New motor is here this one needs to go! #3999289 2 bolt block w/ ARP main studs bored .060 over GM forged 4.00" crank cross drilled, profiled, int balanced Clevite 77 main, rod, cam bearings Milodon 7qt pan, windage tray, Melling HV oil pump GM truck rods, shot peened/polished, ARP 7/16" bolts TRW L2307 forged .060 over pistons 13:1 comp Speed Pro moly rings, SS50U low tension oil rings GM #3994026 casting LS6 square port heads, lots of port work done by Scott Shafiroff, 350CC intake runners, no documentation on port work, ARP head bolts Manley stainless race valves 2.300int 1.88ex Titanium retainers & locks 1.625 Vasco Jet triple springs 225# seat 650# open Omega Gear 1.7 ratio aluminum roller rockers Howards swedged end .080 wall pushrods Moroso Valve covers w/ crank evac breathers, tubes, hoses Crane Pro Series vertical bar lifters (w/ spares) Howards 4-7 swap roller cam .731/.731 lift 299/305 duration Manley double roller timing chain, torrington roller bearings/thrust button, chrome timing cover Victor Jr single plane intake ported & matched to heads chrome water neck Summit 60gpm electric water pump Summit Racing SFI int balancer Summit Racing hi torque mini starter Summit Racing street/strip ignition w/ billet dist (locked out, timing at 36°), coil, & box w/ rev limiter, 8mm wires (have straight or angled boots) Powermaster 100amp alternator (new gm style) Custom low mount bracket with adjuster & moroso crank mandrel, uses a radius tooth belt (also have a standard gm mount bracket and aluminum crank pulley if you want it) 2" primary Hedman Headers for gm truck 73-87 Have more pictures I can send here is a link to videos of it running and making a couple passes down the track, no junk here just going bigger next year, runs great and still in truck if you want to hear it run. Always used k&n filters & redline 20W50 oil in it. Call, text, email Mike (740-243-4787) or Josh (740-808-6768)... willing to sell without some stuff, 6500 OBO with everything https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHn5iGSX8N6RQSTF6PjRyKw
  6. Thanks for all the help guys, found one!! Hope everyone had a very merry Christmas!! Thanks, Josh
  7. Looking for some real wheels, 16x14, 8x6.5 BC.. Would prefer beadlocks but not dead set... Offsets open, would like to have around 10" for the rear, front is whatever I can find. Let me know what you have, trying to buy used before buying new. Respond, PM, or 740-808-6768. Thanks, Josh
  8. Hey guys.. Looking to upgrade motors this winter... Looking for a big bore/short stroke BBC combo (4.600 bore/3.75 stroke round about) with iron heads, less than 514ci.. Looking to buy a complete motor, long block, or short block.. Just trying to save from buying brand new everything and start from scratch. Figured I would check on here first, let me know what ya got, thanks in advance everyone! Respond, PM, or 740-808-6768. Thanks, Josh
  9. Hey Jim... What date(s) and time(s) is this pull? Thanks, Josh
  10. ha josh or mike call me 740-808-0646

    thanks pat

  11. Oh and I have also been hearing that if not running an alternator, it is best to let the steering/water pump/fans run on one battery, then have the fuel pump/ignition/starting run off of the other battery. I know most of you pro-street boys and some cheater stock boys are running hydro steering... Whats the secret guys?
  12. I am hearing alot of mixed reviews on whether an alternator helps or not. I can definately understand that giving the ignition system max voltage, but having just batteries that maintain their max voltage would accomplish the same thing... It may help if I describe the problem I am having. I put hydro steering on last year, same style pump that all the guys in the area are running; haldex with no valving. I am running a 100amp gm 1wire alternator, 4ga wire to battery, 2 batteries wired parallel. Hydro steering pump wired to the pass side batt and everything else driver side... Shouldn't really matter since they are wired parallel, other than the batteries will try to balance each other. With everything on the truck running but the steering the voltage sits at nearly 14V, right when the hydro steering flips on it drops to 10V and stays there, I believe this is because of the large amount of current being drawn. I have contacted Haldex and the pump draws 233amps all the time, which this seems high to me but it is what it is. If those pumps are drawing 233 amps, fuel pump is 14amps, fans are 20 amps tot, water pump is 6amps, MSD says ignition draws 15amps, then figure 5amp for misc gauges that is a total of 288 amps... That seems excessive and like 1 real big alternator or 2 smaller (but bigger than I have now, lol) alternators to keep this thing juiced up.. I already have to charge the batteries after each pull so that isn't a problem to keep doing it without an alternator and using deep cell gel batts... I just want to get the voltage back up to 12V, MSD says their ignitions operate from 9-18volts safely but I would really like to keep it around 12V. I have also been doing some research on alternators and what kind of HP they require to run and ran across a guy who actually uses B&S 5HP motors to run his alternators... Notice I said it plural, lol.. He ran a 100amp off of 1 motor and when the truck was running everything was fine, the batteries stayed charge.. But when he turned his steering on, the 5HP motor stalled and the voltage went way down, theory was that the 5HP motor was fine at normal load <100amp draw but once he kicked the steering on the alternator was running at full capacity, trying for <=100amps... So in our case, this would leave me to believe that it takes more than 5HP to turn a 100amp alternator at full load (not sure on what size pulleys he had on the alt and the engine). To solve it he ended up putting another 5HP engine on the truck and using a 35amp alt on each engine, and used 2 large deep cell batts.... I could go with his setup; but the batts are too large to fit under the hood, I dont want to put 2 alternators on the engine, rules technically would allow for lawn mower engines to be mounted on the weight bar but I would prefer to stay away from that, and I would prefer to stay away from mounting batts in the bed (just a personal preference).. I did find some HD marine gel deep cycles that are rated at 1400amp (slow/long discharge before dropping below 10.5V) each and have calculated with 2 of them I could run the truck for 30-40 minutes with everything turned on before the voltage would drop below 10.5V, but kind of skeptical to try it out since I have not heard of anyone going this route with small batts that are the same physical size as stock. Sorry for the long post, just been doing alot of research and any help/insight is welcome!!! Thanks, Mike & Josh
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