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what are you running for shocks

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Guest Leadfoot

I run Afco double adjustable coilovers in the front (required crossover steering to install where I did....where the bump stop bolts to).

The ones pictured in your link are much difffernt than what I run (but also much cheaper).  I'm able to adjust spring rate, spring preload, and valving (which took adjusting each to dial in).  Those might work well for a hanging weight class (keep the front end from squatting so much), but I doubt those will help in a non-hanging weight class (may even make it worse...adding to bounce).

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Guest bowtie7

We run 4 good gas shocks on the front. One on the front and one on the rear in a v shape. We hang about the same weight as you do.

 

 

 

Pat

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Guest PERFORMANCETRUCK

We run 4 good gas shocks on the front. One on the front and one on the rear in a v shape. We hang about the same weight as you do.

 

 

 

Pat

Why in a V shape???

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already got the rear done but its block solid. on a loose track it wont bounce at all with 15-18 psi in the fronts and 35 in the rears. hard pack track it will bounce a little off the line

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Guest bowtie7

We run one on the front of the axle and one on the rear of the front axle so they form a v shape.We have to run a inch of travel in the rear. Pt did the chassis this year it work well for us. But you now how that goes what works on one truck may not work on another.

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Guest PERFORMANCETRUCK

already got the rear done but its block solid. on a loose track it wont bounce at all with 15-18 psi in the fronts and 35 in the rears. hard pack track it will bounce a little off the line

What kind of clutch do you run?

Do you still have the factory swaybars on the front end?

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Guest Leadfoot

Why in a V shape???

 

I'm ASSuming vertical is better for dampening verticle suspension travel (the way a shock is designed to work), but putting them in a V (much like I used to do in the rear prior to traction bars when they were not allowed) seems to help with axle wrap.  Is that the reason you do this?

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Guest bowtie7

First thing u need to do is put the third pedal in. I was a die hard automatic till lasts year.its night and day difference. You can do so much more with the truck.

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Guest PERFORMANCETRUCK

I'm ASSuming vertical is better for dampening verticle suspension travel (the way a shock is designed to work), but putting them in a V (much like I used to do in the rear prior to traction bars when they were not allowed) seems to help with axle wrap.  Is that the reason you do this?

Yep, a lot of the trucks I build only have 1 or 2 front leaf springs and most of the weight sits on susp stops. With this setup axle wrap can still be an issue on the front axle even with traction bars and the dual v-shock set up keeps the front susp smooth.

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Guest PERFORMANCETRUCK

I have yet to finish below a 3rd place in over 40 hooks with a automatic. So I think it's working for me.

Thats cool. Does a lot of trucks run automatics up there?

 

It's a lot diferent down here the automatics rarely make it in the top 5 and when they do it's on shitty tracks.

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Guest bowtie7

Thats right. We went from a top 10 truck to a top 5 thanks to Proformance truck and tractor

Jason is the man.!!!! LOW LEAN MEAN!!!!!LOL I Quit asking question the stuff he did Wow.One of smallest motor in the class and i think the worst we did was 6. But that was driver error me. Learn a lot last year big one adjust that clutch adjust that clutch. Lol its a expenses lesson but it won't happen again.

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Thats cool. Does a lot of trucks run automatics up there?

 

It's a lot diferent down here the automatics rarely make it in the top 5 and when they do it's on shitty tracks.

 

couple mopars and 1 chevy run auto's

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couple mopars and 1 chevy run auto's

loose tracks manuals normal beat us by a couple inches but the harder tracks we usally beat them. we have all hard tracks but 2

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Guest Leadfoot

How do the other autos place? How many trucks total? I did it because I was told you couldn't, but definitely need more HP to do it. Luckily my engine builder is also my landlord. We have dyno proven the auto sucks up a bunch more HP's, but I also think it's more forgiving on less than ideal tracks and/or lead sleds (we have a lot of both). One thing I find interesting is on one of our best tracks and a decent sled (Love's Decision Maker), I have beaten an identical (other than cam) motored truck running an SM465 (same engine builder). He runs 4:10s and stock first (not granny) gear. I run 4:56's and 3:1 first gear.

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How do the other autos place? How many trucks total? I did it because I was told you couldn't, but definitely need more HP to do it. Luckily my engine builder is also my landlord. We have dyno proven the auto sucks up a bunch more HP's, but I also think it's more forgiving on less than ideal tracks and/or lead sleds (we have a lot of both). One thing I find interesting is on one of our best tracks and a decent sled (Love's Decision Maker), I have beaten an identical (other than cam) motored truck running an SM465 (same engine builder). He runs 4:10s and stock first (not granny) gear. I run 4:56's and 3:1 first gear.

 

 

around 10-15 trucks. the won that wins it is a sb 434 th350/np205 truck with 4.88's with 33's. we only did the autos cause everyone told us auto guys they would kick our butts. well long story short we are always in the top 3 and the guys that said would kick our butts are in the top 7-8 now. i was running a 383 mopar big block around 450 hp with a PTC converter. now i went to a 470 stroker with 680 hp now we will see if i can get that 1st all year long. just gotta figure out the hop off the line

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Guest Leadfoot

I think you may find that your newfound power may cause you more issues.  Prior to this motor I was running a stock big block with just mild cam, intake, carb, and headers and did pretty well considering I was up against "built" motors.  I built this full roller motor and my chassis went haywire.  The old motor was enough to power the truck, but not overpower the track.  The new motor allowed me to spin the tires at will and upset the chassis (my old motor would not allow this).  You may have similar results.  It took quite a bit of suspenion work to get under control with no hanging weights, but I got it done.  Building an even bigger motor this year and I have a feeling I'm in for more suspension/chassis adjustments again...

 

We just ran the old motor with 33" street tires for baseline:

http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=450414588353231&set=vb.100001540803899&type=2&theater

 

The shop where my buddy works is looking to do a magazine article.  Going to build the motor, engine dyno it, then dyno it on the chassis dyno to see actual loss.

 

They primary build circle track motors and have done a comparison, as well as street car motors (manual and auto and that's how they've found the autos suck up a bunch more HP), but they want to find out what the transfer case, driveshaft angle, and larger wheel/tires suck up.


 
 

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i think im a little over my head so i have to start some place.

 

here is a vid with the old 383... this is the pass my converter decided to let go internally

 

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