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LOGANSTANFORTH

Pulling Truck...This will not end good...

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Soooo...I have a 77 Ford F-150 regular cab short bed that I traded a lowered early 90's 2wd Chevy for...I won't have the diesel truck ready any time soon so I want to pull the F-150 here locally...The truck has a 390 (460 setting on shop floor for after the 390 goes), stock clutch, NP435, 205 case, 3.55 geared full float Dana 60 8 lug in the rear and coil sprung 5 lug Dana 44 high pinion in the front...It has 15x10 steel wheels (5 lug front, 8 lug rear) and it came with brand new 35x12.50x15 B.F. Goodrich AT's...It has 5 inch lift on it and is pretty "soft" in the nose so it should do well going down the track...I may take the front tube bumper off right now and build a weight bracket that bolts to the frame...They have very open rules and I got to talk to someone that is running the pulls so I can find out if I need loops and shields and the hitch rules...Its a 6200 pound class I believe and I don't think I will weight up that much, probably around 5800 cause I dont think the clutch/driveshafts will like the weight...I am going to get everything right on the truck tomorrow then I am going to start building bump stops and traction bars...I am thinking of just locking the rear suspension and building a pro-stock style adjustable hitch and a reese style hitch for either rules...My predictions will be 1 of 2 things...The clutch will burn mercilessly or I will twist the driveshaft off the rear end...

 

Here is the truck...

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Well, we decided to chain the truck to a big tree in the back yard and put a load on it too see if it would wheel hop bad with no bars, the engine wouldn't bog down or misfire...It pulled all 4 tires hard and the clutch held...Then on the third try the truck did a 4 wheel jump into the air and the rear yoke gave up the ghost and got the driveshaft...After we pulled it out and looked at it we realized it was just a ticking time bomb...The yokes were touching from the driveshaft angles so I am going to take care of that...I am going to find a bigger driveshaft for the rear as its just a skinny 1/2 ton shaft and I will eventually twist it again...I need to find a 1410 Dana 60 yoke and a 1410 fixed yoke for a NP205...

 

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I found a Superduty shaft today that I have to cut down and reweld cause one section is long enough but has the wrong ends, the other part of the shaft is too short but has the right end on it...I am going to just do it myself tomorrow here at the house and I'm not going to worry about balancing the thing...I have built them before and not had a problem as long as you don't street drive it, they are ok...Should be fun...

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I dropped the shaft off at the driveline shop today...It will cost me 60.00 to have them cut and weld it and then balance it like I need...By the time I deal with all the BS of getting it setup and welded, it will cost me more in time than if they do it...

 

 

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I bought two Category 2 tractor top links for traction bars and four Category 1 links to lock my suspension...I took the Cat. 2's and cut them and I am sleeving them inside with 1 inch Schedule 40 and plug welding them and sleeved the outside with 2x2 inch 11 gauge box tubing (No one sold round tubing that would fit over it) that will be pie cut and welded plus being plug welded...I bought all my axle mounting tabs from Ballistic Fabrication and on the frame end I am using Ford F-53 Motorhome 2.5 inch spring hangers to bolt my traction bars too...I bought a 32 spline 1410 NP205 yoke and a 29 spline 1410 Dana 60 Yoke today also so I can bolt my Super Duty driveshaft in...

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Cat. 2 links...

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Sched. 40 inner pipe and Cat. 2 links...

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Driveshafts...The top one is the factory 1310/1330 one...The middle one is the shaft I had built...The bottom shaft is whats left of the Super Duty shaft...

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Spring hangers I am using for traction bar frame mounts...

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The truck again...

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Here is the rearend all welded solid into place and some shots of our removable lower driveshaft loop I built with some hitch tube and 8 inch diameter by 3 inch long Schedule 40. We drilled a hole in the top piece of matching Scedule 40 and bolted it to the main cab crossmember and put 2 tack welds on it so it wouldn't turn. Don't worry, the top shield is temporary, I will be building a complete removable driveshaft loop setup with the two 3 inch u-joint shields and two 2 inch pieces of 8 inch schedule 40 all welded and bolted together. Ignore the chicken-chit welds. We were having welder problems but they are burned in and holding. I already got plans for the new lower tabs for when I have to put a bigger rearend under the truck so it will look and work better, this rear will be replaced by one of my 14 bolts, Dana 70's or a 10.25 Ford. I may go with the 10.25 cause it will bolt right in with no modifications...When I get a chance I will be welding some 4 inch angle iron to the sides of the frame (with proper bracing of course) and drilling a hole in it so I can use a piece of all-thread to build bump stops so if the rules say I have to have moving suspension I will remove my 4 locating links and adjust the all-thread down so it only has the minimal required travel...Oh and don't worry about the brake lines, I am running all new this week...

 

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We worked four 18 hour days to get it ready for the pull today and the mechanical fuel pump and ignition box fails before we get it unloaded at the pull after driving 1 1/2 hours to get there...Oh well. We won't have anymore problems because all of these problems will be eliminated...

 

I built a new hitch from a cross piece from a Reese hitch and welded it to 2 pieces of 18 inch long 1/4 inch thick 3x3 angle iron and bolted it to the frame with ten 1/2 inch bolts and two 5/8 grade 8 bolts. I slid back several inches from the stock location. I may do some more bracing to make sure it won't fail. I also need to build some sled bump stops this week so if something break (pinion or axle shaft I'm sure) the sled won't hit me in the ass. I will be posting some pics of the hitch if I get a chance to take some today...

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Thats a nice project you have going on.

 

Thanks, I have to get the front weight bracket finished and a couple other things. I have since started on doing some stuff to the engine...

 

 

What are the springs used for?

 

 

just to say they have them...just like someone else that you know!;)

 

I still need to add my all-thread bump stops to the outside of the frame...I am using gusseted angle iron welded to the outsides of the frame with a 1 inch hole drilled in it with all thread ran through it to the top of my spring pads so I can set it up to run with working suspension like alot of guys do...That way I can run 1, 1.5, 2, or however many inches of suspension travel I need...

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to make traction bars for a dd, would you just add a hanger to where it mounts to the frame, like it is on one side of the leaf springs (on a SD anyway...)?

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