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mightyrat

electric steering

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The cheapest way would be to get an electric hydraulic pump and plumb it into your factory steering box instead of your factory power steering pump. A couple of guys around here have there's set up like this and they work very well.

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Guest PERFORMANCETRUCK

Hey Tim pm Matt Anderson he can let you know what pump to run if you are plumbing it to the stock steering box.

All the set ups I build are complete systems w/ pump, rotary valve, and cylinder, but they cost alot of $$$$. The way Matt did his was pretty reasonable.

 

Jason

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Hey Tim pm Matt Anderson he can let you know what pump to run if you are plumbing it to the stock steering box.

All the set ups I build are complete systems w/ pump, rotary valve, and cylinder, but they cost alot of $$$$. The way Matt did his was pretty reasonable.

 

Jason

 

 

thanks guys...

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Guest PERFORMANCETRUCK

Yes, like tinker toy said you must use a open center orbital valve. So don't buy a used one off of a J.D. tractor or combine because most of them are closed center and won't work.

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Yes, like tinker toy said you must use a open center orbital valve. So don't buy a used one off of a J.D. tractor or combine because most of them are closed center and won't work.

 

 

ok... sounds kinda overwhelming, but i`m going to look into it... thanks guys!

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I used one off of a JD combine. It actually had an orbital valve that controlled a directional valve that controlled the hydraulic cylinder. Worked great and only cost me about $40. If you understand hydraulic systems it won't be too bad. Let me know if you need some parts, we have a combine junk yard around here with dozens of those things.

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Anything and everything you need to know about hydraulic steering systems, replace the Saginaw pump and reservoir with a Haldex (no valving) pump from northern tool or similar:

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/index.html

 

- Check around on ebay or do a search for a forklift junkyard, they sell open center steering valves (brand new ones are like $300-400), look through Char-lynn and Eaton catalogs to make sure you do not get a load reactive unit if you are using a single ended tie rod cylinder since your turns lock to lock will be different (easiest and cheapest). Make sure you measure your steering travel before buying a cylinder, they will rip right through headers and steering knuckles if it is too long. I did my whole setup for $600 with a brand new pump, brand new tie rod, used steering valve, filter setup, hoses, and made a steering column out of a forklift column and exhaust tubing since I had a bunch of header clearance issues with using the factory unless i chopped it up.

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Anything and everything you need to know about hydraulic steering systems, replace the Saginaw pump and reservoir with a Haldex (no valving) pump from northern tool or similar:

 

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/index.html

 

- Check around on ebay or do a search for a forklift junkyard, they sell open center steering valves (brand new ones are like $300-400), look through Char-lynn and Eaton catalogs to make sure you do not get a load reactive unit if you are using a single ended tie rod cylinder since your turns lock to lock will be different (easiest and cheapest). Make sure you measure your steering travel before buying a cylinder, they will rip right through headers and steering knuckles if it is too long. I did my whole setup for $600 with a brand new pump, brand new tie rod, used steering valve, filter setup, hoses, and made a steering column out of a forklift column and exhaust tubing since I had a bunch of header clearance issues with using the factory unless i chopped it up.

 

you can also chop the cylinder too limit the travel..... mine was a single ended cylinder!

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You also can just extend the steering stops on the axle so that you don't damage the headers or fenders.

 

 

how do you do it using the stock steering box?

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With using the stock steering box you do the same thing for stopping the turning radius. For plumbing the pump you would just need a pump and resevoir and you would plumb the pressure line into the pressure side of the gear box and the return from the return side just like it runs from your stock power steering pump. Like was said before, you have to be careful with the pressure so you don't blow the gear box apart.

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With using the stock steering box you do the same thing for stopping the turning radius. For plumbing the pump you would just need a pump and resevoir and you would plumb the pressure line into the pressure side of the gear box and the return from the return side just like it runs from your stock power steering pump. Like was said before, you have to be careful with the pressure so you don't blow the gear box apart.

 

 

how much pressure is enough? is there a regulator on the pump?

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Most pumps will have a regulator. I would just start real low and give it just enough to turn the tires. The other way to find out is to blow one apart and then don't go that high on the next one. I will have to check with one of the guys I run with to see what his is at. His has been together for a long time.

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Most pumps will have a regulator. I would just start real low and give it just enough to turn the tires. The other way to find out is to blow one apart and then don't go that high on the next one. I will have to check with one of the guys I run with to see what his is at. His has been together for a long time.

 

cool. thanks. i really dont want to blow it apart. i dont like wrenchn` that much.

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You also can just extend the steering stops on the axle so that you don't damage the headers or fenders.

 

that does not work or mine made to much pressure....... bent those bolts like nothing....

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Wow!!! Did you really need that much pressure to turn those big tires? I put a sleeve over the bolts to keep them from bending over. Mine also didn't pull real bad from side to side since it didn't make a ton of power or have a lot of tire under it.

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how much pressure is enough? is there a regulator on the pump?

 

 

i have used old liftgate pumps when hooked to the steering box with no problem,dont know what pressures they run at but most are adjustable in the pump head.

 

i put full hydraulic on mine with an orbital valve off a case tractor and bought a new power unit from northern tool and bought a new double acting cylinder off ebay from a guy in florida,allso bought the hose from him.

 

allso if you go full hydraulic let the ram be the limiter,like tthomp said it will break the stops

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